L'Oranger
our review
Don’t you hate it when, just as you have your mouth full, the restaurant manager sidles up to your table with an ‘ Is everything all right sir/madam?’ then stands expectantly with a plastic grin on his face awaiting the inevitable ‘Yes, fine thanks,’ before moving on to the next victim. Well you don’t get any of that at l’Oranger.
Here the service is always personal with Maitre d’ Eric Artieres always managing to make each table feel it’s receiving his unique attention. When he appears at your side, and always between courses, it’s not to fish for compliments it’s to make conversation. He remarks on the dishes you’re eating, the wine you’re drinking and, sometimes rather roguishly, on other diners. All the time though his attention is equally trained on his staff and they certainly know it. They aren’t cowed but they are careful. This is a restaurant where service and food are seamlessly combined to deliver a dining experience that is never oppressive or stuffy yet is the height of fine dining. The ornate space, the gilded and smoke-blackened mirrors and the heavy linens all speak of a different, more refined era and yet the room is not subdued. Instead it’s busy with people all talking and laughing and enjoying their food just the right amount. Which is to say they are enjoying it a great deal, but remembering that the food is not the star, the people around the table are.
The food is certainly star-worthy. Chef Laurent Michel consistently sends out dishes that are perfectly appropriate to the room. A Tomato Gazpacho Soup with Mozaique of Provencal Courgetttes is a lovely piece of design. In the bowl is a parcel made of courgette slices raffia-weaved together with remarkable precision. You have a moment to admire it before the waiter inundates the bowl with the gazpacho to a depth that leaves the parcel just breasting the waves. The soup is the essence of summer, the tomatoes singing out with their natural balance of acidity and sweetness. Break, rather regretfully, into the ornate parcel and inside amongst other things are tiny cubes of mozzarella which add just the right textural note to the dish, as do the tender courgette slices. With it Eric has chosen a Chateau Tour des Genets Rosé 2007, which blushes a shy pink and is absolutely perfect.
So far so French but next is a Langoustine Tempura with avocados, mangos parfait and garlic foam. Tempura is of course Asian in origin, but is just right for something as delicate as a langoustine. Once again you have to first sit and enjoy the presentation, almost mathematical in its accuracy but not one of those annoying cheffy set ups where you have no idea where to start. It’s all laid out in a way that lets you sample different combinations of tastes without having to first smash a construct down to the ground. The tempura is perfectly oil-free and so light it almost floats on the garlic foam. A very good dish partnered with Sancerre Les Chasseignes Domaine Claude Riffault 2005
The main dish couldn’t be simpler. Top quality ‘Poularde’ chicken which has had nothing done to it except to have sliced truffles placed under its skin and then roasted. It’s nice to be asked whether we prefer breast or leg and the whole dish comes elegantly plated with truffle sauce and summer vegetables. It’s also good to see a restaurant of this caliber unafraid to serve something so straightforward and yet so delicious. This came with Chateau Teyssier, St Emilion Grand Cru 2003 which was medium bodied so as to not swamp the chicken, but with plenty of herbs and licorice in the glass. L’Oranger serves cheese properly –before dessert – and all their cheeses are headily ‘a point’ for aroma and texture. Encouraged to have a port with them, we did. A Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage Port 1989 which although I’m not a port person I found just right.
Regretfully things come to an end, but the Milk Chocolate Mousse Cannelloni With Red berries jam and Chocolate Sorbet was not at all heavy, the berries sharp against the chocolate and the cannelloni charmingly perky. It’s that rare thing, a dessert that doesn’t do you in. The Tokaji 5 Puttonyos Tokaj Classic 2001 was sweet but not cloying.
Every time I come to L’Oranger I leave happy - happy in my stomach and happy that a place like this still exists. Its fine blend of classic service and high quality cuisine, together with an ambience you can’t buy, but only lay down over time like a fine wine, is unique. Of course in the evening it isn’t cheap, how could it be? You get what you pay for in this life, and you get it very good at L’Oranger. Always recommended.
Nick Harman - July 2008
your comments review this restaurant and win a bottle of champagne
I'm almost embarrassed to admit that the evening my partner and I visited L'Oranger it wasn't actually our first choice but as fate would have it we stumbled across one of the best dining experiences one could wish for.
Particular highlights were the fois gras soup and salmon roulade, both combined great flavour with the most stunning presentation, at times I was happy just staring at the food!
This restaurant is as good as it gets.
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Deji - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating 
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
I went to L'Oranger last week as I was trying to find the perfect venue to impress my parents - I usually go for lunch on business with my colleague and I was suprised by the lovely atmosphere for dinner! The staff was charming and perfectly lead by Nordine, the Maitre D. The food was superb and it was the first time that I tried the tasting menu. Not too expensive, the wine was very good and matched perfectly with our menu. I must add that Lucio is very helpful sommelier!!!! We have had an excellent evening and I would recommend this place to anyone looking for a great French restaurant!!!! Probably one of the best in London... let's keep it secret!!!!!
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Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 9
Friday, June 13, 2008
My reservation had gotten lost between top-table and the restaurant, but the very helpful maitre d' still managed to seat us within minutes of arrival. As every other table was very quickly filled up I think we got lucky. Service was well balanced between attentive and unfussy; the wine suggestions were excellent and well-partnered to the dishes, and cheaper than our initial musings.
We had the menu degustation and, although excellent throughout, make sure you are hungry - every course is both rich and generously proportioned. We had to take a little breather before tackling desert. Fortunately these were light and well-judged after such an extravagant procession of dishes. I still felt stuffed 24 hours later!
Not exactly cheap, but the charming staff, excellent presentation and attention to detail is what fine dining is all about. Next time though, I'll stick to three courses.
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David Sutherland
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 8
Monday, April 28, 2008
Six of us dined at L'Oranger, all for the first time, last Saturday (16th February). I have to say that we were all very disappointed to be told at 20:00, that there was no lobster, pigeon or duck available. Whilst reducing the list of starters by 1, this reduced the list of main courses by 3 (approx 30%). On ordering desert, we were informed there was no pineapple available!
Whilst the food we could choose was of good quality, we were left disappointed by the overall experience.
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Mike
Overall rating 
Food 6 | Service 8 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 4
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
I have been dining at L'Oranger for many years and eat there a few times each year when time allows. I had the pleasure of dining on Thursday evening for Valentine's day and felt compelled to write about the fabulous experience which can so often be a letdown at restaurants on 14th February.
As always the dining experience was second to none and the service exemplary. It is often difficult to get that right balance between over attentive service and not enough but the staff always seem to find the perfect balance, exceptional given how busy the restaurant was on that evening.
Lucio the sommelier is always adept at suggesting a wine to complement the choice of food... and at all price points which is another plus.
The menu for Valentine's day had something to suit all tastes and also an option of fish or meat for the main course. The bisque with truffles and the salmon for the first two courses were excellent, and the size of the salmon portion almost too much to ensure room was left for main course and desert. We both had the lamb for main, cooked to perfection and beautifully tender. I declined the rich chocolate desert but it certainly was well received by my dining partner and the cheese rounded of a memorable evening.
I would thoroughly recommend L'Oranger to any diner for a special occasion or more regular dining if finances allow! Keep up the superb work Eric & Nordine.
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James
Overall rating 
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 9
Sunday, February 17, 2008
I completely disagree with one of the previour review saying that food served was not fresh on Valentines night, I had also diner there with my girlfriend and I had one of the best meal ever. The set menu prie was alright for the quality and quantity offered on the night. I would like to compliment the Chef (laurent michell I think) and I can't wait to return to try the a la carte!!!
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Mark
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 9
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Simply Perfect!!!
We went yesterday on Valentine's and had a perfect evening!
The food and the service so deserves a ichelin star!! I can't believe this restaurant does not have more than 2 Rosettes.
The best Pastry Chef in London in David Pierre!
It can be pricy but you are aware of that when you go.
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Anders
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 9
Friday, February 15, 2008
Outstanding. It is the only word to describe L'Oranger. From the moment you set foot inside to the moment you leave. We went last night and had the valentine's set menu. I am often wary of restaurants producing a set menu on such occasions as the quality sometimes slips. Not here.
The pumpkin and chestnut veloute was full of flavour, but was upstaged by the most incredible smoked salmon in a nest of celeriac and green apples which came with a lime juice gravy - simply incredible.
Lamb tenderloin followed and was cooked to perfection. The sweet goat cheese and dry apricots were wonderful. The menu was completed with a delious dark chocolate pudding which was rich, sharp and light.
The service in this restaurant was exceptional. Attentive yet unobtrusive. The waiters were knowledgable about the menu and were very gracious in accepting the compliments that were coming from a number of tables. I have never seen so many diners call waiters to the table simply to compliment the chef.
This restaurant is an absolute gem. We had a wonderful evening and cannot wait to return.
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Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Friday, February 15, 2008
We just came back from Valentines dinner at l'Oranger and was not really what we were expecting and that was quality fresh cooked food/ingredients and top service for £76.00 plus drinks and service per head. What we actually got was a below average food/set meal, that had obviously already been prepared earlier! Certainly some of the meal tasted as though it had been reheated and NOT fresh! We know that this is the busiest night of the year in the restaurant trade when they can charge top money and actually do very little when it comes to the food, as every diner has the same, to my mind it should be much easier than on any other night for the chef as I would imagine it would be a lot more work/effort when the chefs have to cook everything fresh to order for a restaurant full lof diners ordering different meals! I truly believe they have a do not give a damn attitude on Valentines in many restaurants and its about maximum profit least amount of effort give the customers a free rose and see them on their way!!
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Sharon
Overall rating 
Food 2 | Service 2 | Atmosphere 2 | Value for money 0
Thursday, February 14, 2008
I took 11 friends for dinner at L’Oranger a few weeks back. We meet two or three times a year to “eat out” in various restaurants across Europe so our expectations are high. L’Oranger did us proud and I would rate our meal in the top three of all those eaten to date.
The build up to the meal had been an enjoyable experience. I chose L’Oranger mainly because of all the positive reviews that I had read. I wanted a top-class but unpretentious restaurant with private dining facilities. The location cannot be faulted and the restaurant itself is very welcoming. Nordine, front of house, happens to be from the same part of France in which I used to spend my teenage summer holidays – so conversation was easy and a trip down memory lane. Yoko organised the evening effortlessly, and Lucio, the sommelier, was as erudite as he was passionate about his wine. To accompany our menu dégustation, he recommended a versatile Chablis and Aloxe Corton (domaine Claude Chevalier), and a sweet Italian red to go with the foie gras – all were remarkable.
The food itself was out of the top drawer. I particularly liked our starter, a creamy soup of Jerusalem and globe artichokes with a “cromesquis” of foie gras, and the first desert, a blood orange and lemon confit topping a caramel ice-cream and vanilla and cinamon mousse. Others thought the scallops and steamed leeks, with truffle and Jurançon sauce stole the show. The only disappointment was a Caribbean chocolate soup served as second desert. Its decoration of compote of carrots with cardamom carrots and tropical sorbet was a desert in itself. A rich, pungent coffee and mignardises rounded off a great occasion.
This was a great meal, ably and discretely served by our dedicated waitress in the private dining room on the lower ground floor. If the “à la carte” menu upstairs has another few jewels on it, then, surely, the Michelin star will come home to roost.
Merci. L’Oranger!
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Michael Jones - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 8
Monday, November 26, 2007
